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Monday 18 July 2011

The "Magical Spice Farm".

I must have driven my friends crazy talking about this place and basically how wonderful it is! Every time I visit I get yet another insight into a different world, a different Goa, a different way of life that many believe has been lost for good and that many aspire to!
Wow, sounds interesting but why this special place is and why is it that of the countless people I have introduced to the Farm, not one has not come away dis-agreeing that what Chinmay and Gauri have is truly fantastic.
Well the truth is that The Tanshikar Working Organic Spice Farm works at all different levels, whether you are a hard fast botanist, an eco-warrior, a foodie, a historian or whatever, Tanshikar has something! I was going to say something ‘to offer’ but this suggests it’s a commercial venture in the true sense of ‘ring ring’ of the cash register; it’s simply not like that.
The farm has been running for many years, Chinmay is 4th generation and together with his wife Gauri decided after seeing the commercial spice farms in the North, that they could do something similar but with a different emphasis. This really is a working farm, spread across 30 acres with 20 or so staff.  They live in their 220 year old family house and live a virtually self sustainable life. All of the produce is 100% organic.
So what does Tanshikar offer? Unlike the competitors, Tanshikar takes a maximum of 12 persons per day, with 6 per group being the optimum number per tour. The walk round is carried out by Chinmay or Gauri so you are sure to get personal service. The time it takes to have the ‘introduction to spices’ varies according to a number of factors and depends really upon the interest the guests have in the plants and the environment, so the tour can be anything from 30 minutes to 3 hours! I have brought people here for a quick ‘look-see’ expecting a 45 minute wait and had to wait 145 minutes!
The farm grows 6 varieties of spice and various sub varieties, you will be introduced to each spice and get a brief explanation of how they grow, what the spice can be used for etc etc.  Did you know nutmeg can be lethal?  Picking the spices or fruit to be used in your lunch adds a nice and tasty touch.
Part of the walking tour takes you to the boundary of the farm where you will find , as they put it ‘the mysterious bubble tank’, actually I think it’s just a natural spring around which a tank attached to an older temple was constructed , the tank is probably a few hundred years old . You can take a dip or dangle your feet, tiny fish come up and start to graze on the dead skin……a very different pedicure and it’s free! Don’t worry it’s not like a Spielberg movie or a clip from ‘Piranha’ , there only a few fish and to have a full pedicure would probably take six years…...Watch out for the priest, he is very hot on not wearing shoes at the tank and will soon tell you so! There is also a great photo opportunity here; they have rubbish bins, very unusual! For those wanting to trek further, Chinmay will offer trekking options to three local waterfalls, (when I say local, the nearest is 45 minute walk), so this would be perfect for those wanting to spend the whole day here and perhaps stay over.
The small shop has a selection of spices for sale, everything is produced on the farm, as well as the spices they also sell forest honey and coconut oil infused with hibiscus. The spices come ready wrapped and wherever possible in recycled paper. A small description of the spice, what it can be used for and a recipe is also provided a very nice touch that will probably ensure you use it! Attached to the shop is a tiny farm museum, probably just a dozen or so exhibits but enough to keep you interested if you are waiting for the other group to return.  Chinmay should perhaps have a quiz to see if people can determine the use of some of the objects, could be fun… 
To give guests the opportunity to enjoy the environment even more, Chinmay has constructed a number of rooms traditionally made from ‘mud’ and timber, naturally cool they have a rustic charm totally in sync with the surroundings. For all you  Brits , when we talk about ‘mud’ we mean something similar to wattle and daub, so don’t worry it won’t get washed away in a shower or you bathroom walls disappearing while taking a shower.
For those taking the tour or staying in the rooms, Gauri and Chinmay’s mom prepare fab vegetarian meals, simply delicious. I am pushing hard for Gauri to give me the recipes, (not for my wife of course, who would simply keel over from shock if I gave them to her and expected her to cook something),  I have  offered to blog them, fingers crossed and if you are a foreigner ‘knife and fork ready ‘, or Indian ‘fingers poised!’
The farmhouse for me is the highlight of Tanshikar, built just before the turn of the 19th Century; its style is Goan not Portuguese! It has a courtyard with the obligatory Tulsi tree, mud floors and a charm that captivates, the kitchen is amazing basically it’s a ‘living museum’. Wonderful detailing in the doors and fittings make it truly memorable and loved by the whole family and ME!!
 By the way, the drive itself to the farm is breathtaking; it’s about 45 km from Palolem, just head for Neturlim.  As you drive towards  the mountain pass you will see paddy fields, waterfalls  and charming vistas, the journey is a must- do anyway, the road is excellent for biking, usually quiet with  simply  stunning scenery. Make a point of stopping and enjoying the peace and quiet and a chai! This is a different Goa.
Back to business, when you get chatting to Chinmay, you realize how focused he is on keeping things as they are; they have no intention of changing how they live or how they work. They see that opening the farm gives people an insight into their life; the farm itself is getting a lot of interest both locally and internationally and has been featured in an Austrian Travel Magazine, a Czech Style Magazine and half a page in Mid-Day Goa. A local TV series has also featured this amazing place and will be aired locally and nationally, I was interviewed as a tourist on what I think of the area! (Please send 500 rs for autographed photo sent by return post).    

So there you have it! Tanshikar Working Organic Spice Farm, a truly memorable experience. I wonder what will be the highlight of your visit; will it be the spices, the house or the warmth, gentleness and hospitality of your hosts Chinmay and Gauri?   
 
'Tanshikar' sounds magical doesn't it? Well it is!

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