The "Magical Spice Farm".

I must have driven my friends crazy talking about this place and basically how wonderful it is! Every time I visit I get yet another insight into a different world, a different Goa, a different way of life that many believe has been lost for good and that many aspire to!

Wow, sounds interesting but why this special place is and why is it that of the countless people I have introduced to the Farm, not one has not come away dis-agreeing that what Chinmay and Gauri have is truly fantastic.

Well the truth is that The Tanshikar Working Organic Spice Farm works at all different levels, whether you are a hard fast botanist, an eco-warrior, a foodie, a historian or whatever, Tanshikar has something! I was going to say something ‘to offer’ but this suggests it’s a commercial venture in the true sense of ‘ring ring’ of the cash register; it’s simply not like that.

The farm has been running for many years, Chinmay is 4^th generation and together with his wife Gauri decided after seeing the commercial spice farms in the North, that they could do something similar but with a different emphasis. This really is a working farm, spread across 30 acres with 20 or so staff.  They live in their 220 year old family house and live a virtually self sustainable life. All of the produce is 100% organic.

So what does Tanshikar offer? Unlike the competitors, Tanshikar takes a maximum of 12 persons per day, with 6 per group being the optimum number per tour. The walk round is carried out by Chinmay or Gauri so you are sure to get personal service. The time it takes to have the ‘introduction to spices’ varies according to a number of factors and depends really upon the interest the guests have in the plants and the environment, so the tour can be anything from 30 minutes to 3 hours! I have brought people here for a quick ‘look-see’ expecting a 45 minute wait and had to wait 145 minutes!
The farm grows 6 varieties of spice and various sub varieties, you will be introduced to each spice and get a brief explanation of how they grow, what the spice can be used for etc etc.  Did you know nutmeg can be lethal?  Picking the spices or fruit to be used in your lunch adds a nice and tasty touch.

Part of the walking tour takes you to the boundary of the farm where you will find , as they put it ‘the mysterious bubble tank’, actually I think it’s just a natural spring around which a tank attached to an older temple was constructed , the tank is probably a few hundred years old . You can take a dip or dangle your feet, tiny fish come up and start to graze on the dead skin……a very different pedicure and it’s free! Don’t worry it’s not like a Spielberg movie or a clip from ‘Piranha’ , there only a few fish and to have a full pedicure would probably take six years…...Watch out for the priest, he is very hot on not wearing shoes at the tank and will soon tell you so! There is also a great photo opportunity here; they have rubbish bins, very unusual! For those wanting to trek further, Chinmay will offer trekking options to three local waterfalls, (when I say local, the nearest is 45 minute walk), so this would be perfect for those wanting to spend the whole day here and perhaps stay over.

The small shop has a selection of spices for sale, everything is produced on the farm, as well as the spices they also sell forest honey and coconut oil infused with hibiscus. The spices come ready wrapped and wherever possible in recycled paper. A small description of the spice, what it can be used for and a recipe is also provided a very nice touch that will probably ensure you use it! Attached to the shop is a tiny farm museum, probably just a dozen or so exhibits but enough to keep you interested if you are waiting for the other group to return.  Chinmay should perhaps have a quiz to see if people can determine the use of some of the objects, could be fun… 

To give guests the opportunity to enjoy the environment even more, Chinmay has constructed a number of rooms traditionally made from ‘mud’ and timber, naturally cool they have a rustic charm totally in sync with the surroundings. For all you  Brits , when we talk about ‘mud’ we mean something similar to wattle and daub, so don’t worry it won’t get washed away in a shower or you bathroom walls disappearing while taking a shower.

For those taking the tour or staying in the rooms, Gauri and Chinmay’s mom prepare fab vegetarian meals, simply delicious. I am pushing hard for Gauri to give me the recipes, (not for my wife of course, who would simply keel over from shock if I gave them to her and expected her to cook something),  I have  offered to blog them, fingers crossed and if you are a foreigner ‘knife and fork ready ‘, or Indian ‘fingers poised!’

The farmhouse for me is the highlight of Tanshikar, built just before the turn of the 19^th Century; its style is Goan not Portuguese! It has a courtyard with the obligatory Tulsi tree, mud floors and a charm that captivates, the kitchen is amazing basically it’s a ‘living museum’. Wonderful detailing in the doors and fittings make it truly memorable and loved by the whole family and ME!!

 By the way, the drive itself to the farm is breathtaking; it’s about 45 km from Palolem, just head for Neturlim.  As you drive towards  the mountain pass you will see paddy fields, waterfalls  and charming vistas, the journey is a must- do anyway, the road is excellent for biking, usually quiet with  simply  stunning scenery. Make a point of stopping and enjoying the peace and quiet and a chai! This is a different Goa.

Back to business, when you get chatting to Chinmay, you realize how focused he is on keeping things as they are; they have no intention of changing how they live or how they work. They see that opening the farm gives people an insight into their life; the farm itself is getting a lot of interest both locally and internationally and has been featured in an Austrian Travel Magazine, a Czech Style Magazine and half a page in Mid-Day Goa. A local TV series has also featured this amazing place and will be aired locally and nationally, I was interviewed as a tourist on what I think of the area! (Please send 500 rs for autographed photo sent by return post).    

So there you have it! Tanshikar Working Organic Spice Farm, a truly memorable experience. I wonder what will be the highlight of your visit; will it be the spices, the house or the warmth, gentleness and hospitality of your hosts Chinmay and Gauri?   

 

'Tanshikar' sounds magical doesn't it? Well it is!

The ‘Devica’… Experience 'On board’ Goan Hospitality

The Devica is a traditionally designed fishing boat that has been built purely to cater for people to experience Goa from a different perspective.

Devidas, the owner and Captain is the perfect host and will design your cruise to suit you. Want to party? Want to simply cruise and bird watch? Want to fish and cook the catch? Want to have a romantic dinner just for two?  Then ‘The Devica’ is moored and waiting just for you.

For the new season we are introducing the Cookery Class, this will be a totally new experience,  following a short trip to spot dolphins, the boat then returns to the calm waters of the River Sal, here the boat will moor and the classes will start. Prices will include lunch and complimentary wine /beer to complete the expereince.  

The packages can be made to suit and whether you want an hour dolphin spotting or full day cruise along the coast taking lunch on a deserted beach, it can be arranged.

Remenber 'The Devica'  is owner managed, so the prices excellent!

Our guests have always had a wonderful experience so if you want more details or to book contact Chris on 0091 8007053818.

Wooden teeth and dishwashers

Its pouring down and here I am sitting on the porch of my fisherman’s cottage and deliberating...I really like my house, or as my son calls it ‘The Hut’.  

That got me thinking, yes my roof leaks, only a bit, but yes it does leak and I have atrocious and an outrageous drainage system , I tell people I am recycling the washing up water by letting it just run into the garden, the Cannas like it, but actually its simply because the bloody thing is blocked. It’s great being ‘green’ when it saves you money, why have I left it? Well, I just know that if the plumber arrives to fix the sink, something will go wrong with the washing machine! 

There's a shock for a number of you…yes we have washing machines! And guess what we also have dishwashers both electric and two legged versions, but I digress!

But what type of accommodation would I recommend?

I have come to the conclusion that most people in the West, especially in Dudley are under the impression that we actually live in huts! I suppose my son referring to ‘the hut’ does not help, but the fact is my mother has not yet been to see me in India, perhaps that’s the reason, and she only lives a few miles from Dudley so I know…..alright!.

To be fair, the ‘shacks’ on the beach really are generally speaking  ‘shacks’ but thats the subject for another blog ......

As an alternative I have been looking at independent properties for rent in Goa, there is a whole spectrum out there, but you really do have to do your homework or go with a Company that has pre vetted the accommodation so you don’t get any nasty shocks.

Speaking honestly I have been asked to put properties on the Goa Buddy site and I am always happy to do so, but you have to be truthful in the comments. I have one house, quite pretty but there is not a single piece of furniture let alone a bed or even a hob to cook on and when asked how do they think their clients will cope they answer ‘Its ok they will bring everything with them!’ . Okay Okay Okay. So now you know why you have to do your homework, if you turn up at a beautifully restored Portuguese mansion to find you have to sleep on the floor, you might as well go into the garden and move the lawnmower over!

 I really believe that there are three categories, independent luxury, independent basic and ‘Oh my God!’ On Buddy I have some lovely properties , if they are very basic you will know but it’s all reflected in the price One thing you should consider, especially if you are staying for a long time is that proper bricks and mortar…….’hold it!’ ….’bricks and mortar?'..... Ok something more substantial than a wall made of grass and used tooth picks can be cheaper and give you more space!   You might even get a garden and a fan and a fridge and a hob and a bed and hot water! Get the idea? It’s not that I am ‘anti shack’ I just think people should be aware of the other options...

The old fisherman’s cottages are generally inexpensive, young fisherman’s cottages are about the same price, all the houses look the same anyway, my house is about 7 years old but has all of the charm of something from the 17^th Century, including a leaky roof,  all I need is wooden teeth to feel totally in character.  The preferred colour of the fishermen’s houses is ‘zinzi pink’ or ‘lycra lime’.

Newer properties, are a little more in the rental stakes and often owned by chaps working on the cruise ships, you can tell as the architectural style of all the ports he has ever visited will be reflected in the building……Greek columns, Portuguese tiles, Spanish balconies, French windows, Italian marble, German car on the drive or at least a Hyundai with a German Manufacturer ‘go faster stripes’.  Generally, these properties are well fitted and inside look like your grandmothers, crochet doylies and brown. These properties tend to be clean and spacious and offer good value; unfortunately they tend to be located away from the main tourist areas so you will probably need transport. Perhaps the Maruti 800 with Ferrari stickers can be part of the package?

That brings us to the ‘luxury independent’ category. This is the category that would shock everyone from Dudley, I have lived in India for 8 years and I know that anything that is considered ‘luxury’ in the West is available here. Goa is a rich state and the money is flowing in, with the money come the professionals and architects and interior designers to graze on the rich folk who decide to build a second home. These independent luxury properties are just that and can stand up against anything the west has to offer, whether its design, style, comfort, impact! Expensive?  Well you are not going to get 4 bedrooms, a swimming pool, chauffeur driven cars and private garden opening onto the beach for 200rs a night but when you do the math’s they work out extremely good value, plus generally if you are going on holiday you want to experience something new and perhaps something that gives you a dream rather than experience something that makes you feel sorry for your lawnmower.

Buddy has a few of these top end properties, ‘Lazydays in Goa’ have some of the best in North Goa and South Goa Villas have a small number around Palolem, both have fantastic Management Teams and don’t worry its ok to mention Dudley!   Needless to say my little house does not appear in the luxury  listing but you can stay here providing you feed the cat and bring your own wooden teeth.