Distance : 600km
Expected Travel Time: 10 hours Actual 13 hours
Vehicle: Maruti Jeep
The Reason:
It just had to be done, there was simply no alternative, to bring Patrik back to Goa and get the Vespa home , I had no choice but to drive.
The Route:
Route? Well Google gave me a choice of three but were not particularly helpful other than giving me distance and expected travel time, what I needed was someone to tell me , that way you don't have to think!
The answer came from a friend who gave me his jeep to use.......'go down the NH17 and turn left at Honnovar, save you at least 40 kms and drive past Jog Falls!' Ok, sorted !
Set the alarm for 5.30 a.m. so I be able to get off at 6 and only have to drive in daylight.
The Reality:
I was looking at the journey with trepidation, nearly 600km at the beginning of the monsoon, on my own, in a jeep without the usual comforts such as Power Steering , Doors, Beyonce or even Radio Mirchi.
The alarm was set but I didn't need it, the storm blowing off the sea was lifting the Mangalore tiles on my roof and dropping them back down, it was enough to wake me and question my sanity.......then I realised that if I decided not to drive, the storm raging outside would be nothing compared to the maelstrom I would experience via Vodafone from wifey, so decided to drive......
As I locked the door and said my last few goodbyes to Mr Rani {the cat} and Bo {the dog}, I stepped out into the horizontal rain, mmmmmm........pulled back the canvas door of my home for the journey and climbed in the jeep, 15 paces and already wet through.....wet pants and twelve hours to go!
The Remarks:
Within 500 metres from home:
The 'live' electricity cable has blown down and swinging precariously 2 meters above the road . The jeep screeches to a halt ..... there is sufficient clearance...... just breathe in and put your flip flops on....... " Hello Sweetheart can't come because there is a live electricty cable across the road'' conversation, is simply not going to work.
still raining......
after two kms:
Get on to the NH17 and the weather brightens, a bump in the road. the Vespa lurches back and forth, I wonder will those scraggy pieces of string really hold my Vespa in place fior the next 11 hrs 50mins?
So what! The road is empty and I can see on the horizon a cloud that is less black than the rest, perhaps its going to be ok.
still raining....
after an hour or so:
The Goa / Karnataka Border is just in sight , its raining less but there are lots of Customs guys on duty and I am accutely aware that the back end of my Vespa is sticking way out, the back door will not close and I am without the obligatory red flag!
The Goa chappies called me through....phew......now for the Karnataka lads, I felt a bit like Steve McQueen in The Great Escape where he's on his motorcycle , jumping barricades and trying to find a gap in the border.....except my two wheeler was a Vespa and it was in the back of a jeep and it was 2011 and I was wearing a kurta rather than a leather flying jacket....and the guards weren't armed......."Stop!" The jeep screeches to a halt from a blistering 5 kms per hour, I didn't want to raise there suspicions that I had done something wrong, I really hadn't but I suppose 5 kms per hour was a bit odd....
' What's that?' "Its a Scooter....'' "Papers?'' Oh bugger I knew this would happen. So I had to park and rummage around for the Registration.......you must understand at this point that no matter what, when there is someone representing Law Enforcement around I always feel guilty! I have never done anything wrong but its just a reaction. I remember once driving in the UK and there had been a terrible accident, glass, skid marks, bits of car all over the road and this policeman was directing the traffic around the scene to allow the accident team to take the measurements, sweep up etc...I spotted him miles off, all the vehicles involved had already been towed away but as I approached, all I could see was that he was directing the traffic.....I swear to this day that he must have changed his action. just for a split second and so I followed his directions and stopped , smack in the middle of the accident scene surrounded by bits of wreckage and glass and very bemused policemen in bright yellow jackets. I wound my window down "What did I do? I wasn't speeding Officer honest!' ...'No sir, but you may have destroyed vital clues in how the accident happend.....' "Oh, sorry......shall I go then ?'
Back to Goa....With beads of sweat running down my brow...actually that's not right, it was rain running down my brow I take the paperwork over to the boss, I know he's the boss, he has bigger badges and a bigger belly. He takes the log book, 'Model?' " Its a '62, I'm taking it home to Mysore". Big smile from Big Daddy, the babies coming home "Off you go!" I nonchalantly run back to the car, throw my document wallet, behind the seat and drive off at a thundering 20 kms per !
Still raining......
After an hour or so....
Still raining......
I drive on over the River at Karwar, very pretty with views out to sea and a sand bar reaching north across the estuary. Drive on past The Udipi Restaurant where the food is cheap and more than acceptable if you are on your own but today I have to keep going. The road is still quiet and its too early to eat anyway, but must make a mental note to stop off at Karwar on the way back to pick up some fish for the cat, it's where you get the freshest of fish at exceptional prices and where all the local shack owners (south of Agonda) come if they are that interested in picking up the best quality sea food for their guests!
Following the road, its a shame I cant stop and really study the coastline, its quite dramatic and I am sure it would be worth exploring the area more...so much to do ......
I have been travelling for some time now and decide that my friends advice to take some one along to keep me company would have been a good idea....
Mmmmmmm...
A few miutes later there's a chap, well dressed, office type struggling with his umbrella and getting very wet, as I pass he looks up. I know in Europe there is no way I would give anyone a lift but this is India, its 7 a.m. , there cant be any nutters around can there?
'Udipi?' asks the guy, "well in that direction to start with." He gets in, its then I realise the only two words he speaks are 'Udipi' and 'No'....so....... 'You ok? ', "No', 'I'll drop you off at Hanovaar?', 'Udipi'.....anyway he was ok we had a fairly one sided conversation but eventually got the knack of just asking the right question...."You aren't english then? ' 'No' ..."Enjoy Shakespeare' 'No'! Anyway it passed af few minutes and then I dropped him off at my junction.
After two hours or so...
Still raining...
Thr road off the NH17, signposted 'Bangalore' was wide and winding and almost immediately starts to climb up into the Ghats. Fast and smooth and was a very pleasant surprise, the landskape is very pretty and as you climb it gets better and better, before long you are in the clouds..the rain clouds.....very dramatic and wet. The road unforunately is also wet and as you get higher it become narrower and less well kept. When dry and sunny I expect this to be a beautiful drive but still having wet pants and more than 350kms to go it was still a bit duanting!
One memorable sight was a large lady, just off the bus, carring a huge bag and crossing the road, the rain was bucketing and then I suddenly noticed there was a cat crossing the road with her and actually sheltering under the bag.....what a clever and dry pussy!
There's only one 'T' junction that needed signposts but there's a couple of shops. (Come on what would you expect a T junction has 2 corners!) and very friendly people in uniform, all happy to point me in the right direction........
After what seems to be forever you start to approach the junction for Jog Falls, I decided to turn right over a bridge, WRONG..this led to Jog Falls which actually is well worth a stop and stay over...but that's for another time. Back over the bridge, you see the water vapour /spray hanging over the falls, quite amazing and I promised myself to go back.
Back on the main road, which between the NH17 and Shimoga which up until now has actually drops down to single track and possibly just large footpath in width in places, starts to descend and suddenly the rain stops! Hoorah! The road quality also gets better Hoorah! and then I realise its taken me nearly 5 hours to there! The 'less than 10hr' Google prophecy is simply not going to happen.
Dry and warm ......
The road becomes quite fast and the signs for Tumkur and Shimoga come quick and fast. The landscape has now changed , the terrain is flat with dramatic mountain ranges and outcrops 'outcropping' on regulat basis. 50 kms or so from Shimoga there is a signpost for Bangalore and Shimoga and its simply did not make sense, so bear this is mind, I had no choice but ask someone.
Suddenly as I am talking to a chap on the right, someone flashes a police id card in front of me! OK here we go, the civilian then asks where am I heading and the next minute he is in the seat beside me . Well, he had a police id so off we go, it turns out he is a 'finger print expert'.....very odd.....in the middle of nowhere I am sitting next to a 'finger print expert'? Be calm. he looks innocent but no ink stains mmmm? But has a 'Peewee Herman' voice and a 'Mrs Doyle' laugh and I kept waiting for the question "Cup of Tea? '.
It didn't happen and as we approached Shimoga I was expecting a request to stop to drop him off, no my new friend had decided to stay with me a bit longer....oh! oh!
No need to worry, I just kept waving at people so that if the cops came looking for my body everyone will be able to say "Yes, he gave us a wave , but looked a bit worried! They went in that direction."
My new aquaitance then suggested lunch, very civilised and we stopped at the Swetha Delux restaurant in Tarikere, its a veg restaurant but serves the most wonderful masala dosa, the best I have had in India! Make it a must-do, if you decide to take this route. The owner is Prakash Chandra Hegde 0826 422362. Excellent!
So on we travel eventually reaching Assikere, 180 km or so from Bangalore and where I dropped off my guest.
The road then on has surprising sights, I was astounded by herds literally herds of ponies, all brown, which really baffles me..why is everything brown , loads of donkeys, all smaller than my dog but I am sure they were donkeys.....missed photo opportunity I think and lots of women wearing what seemed to be early 80's Christian La Croix.
The road was actually a bit boring from then on and once you hit the NH it is very boring but you know you are nearly home. Just one word of warning, if you are not careful the road on to the NH actually turns out to be the slip road off the NH for traffic heading South, so be careful and when you go under the NH at Tumkur be sure to turn right!
Not alot to say really about National Highway driving, anyway you soon arrive in Bangalore, you know simply because you are in a traffic jam, but it is inevitable you will hit traffic if you want to drive from Goa in daylight.
Summary:
Well it took over 13 hours, but the scenery is spectacular and there are lots of small towns and villages and everyone had a smile, there are a few crazy Scorpio drivers but they get everywhere .
So if you have the time and want to make the road trip part of the experience, I would really recommend the 'Jog Falls' route. Ideally a nice open top mercedes would make it perfect but I was more than happy in my Maruti.....even in the rain.
Expected Travel Time: 10 hours Actual 13 hours
Vehicle: Maruti Jeep
The Reason:
It just had to be done, there was simply no alternative, to bring Patrik back to Goa and get the Vespa home , I had no choice but to drive.
The Route:
Route? Well Google gave me a choice of three but were not particularly helpful other than giving me distance and expected travel time, what I needed was someone to tell me , that way you don't have to think!
The answer came from a friend who gave me his jeep to use.......'go down the NH17 and turn left at Honnovar, save you at least 40 kms and drive past Jog Falls!' Ok, sorted !
Set the alarm for 5.30 a.m. so I be able to get off at 6 and only have to drive in daylight.
The Reality:
I was looking at the journey with trepidation, nearly 600km at the beginning of the monsoon, on my own, in a jeep without the usual comforts such as Power Steering , Doors, Beyonce or even Radio Mirchi.
The alarm was set but I didn't need it, the storm blowing off the sea was lifting the Mangalore tiles on my roof and dropping them back down, it was enough to wake me and question my sanity.......then I realised that if I decided not to drive, the storm raging outside would be nothing compared to the maelstrom I would experience via Vodafone from wifey, so decided to drive......
As I locked the door and said my last few goodbyes to Mr Rani {the cat} and Bo {the dog}, I stepped out into the horizontal rain, mmmmmm........pulled back the canvas door of my home for the journey and climbed in the jeep, 15 paces and already wet through.....wet pants and twelve hours to go!
The Remarks:
Within 500 metres from home:
The 'live' electricity cable has blown down and swinging precariously 2 meters above the road . The jeep screeches to a halt ..... there is sufficient clearance...... just breathe in and put your flip flops on....... " Hello Sweetheart can't come because there is a live electricty cable across the road'' conversation, is simply not going to work.
still raining......
after two kms:
Get on to the NH17 and the weather brightens, a bump in the road. the Vespa lurches back and forth, I wonder will those scraggy pieces of string really hold my Vespa in place fior the next 11 hrs 50mins?
So what! The road is empty and I can see on the horizon a cloud that is less black than the rest, perhaps its going to be ok.
still raining....
after an hour or so:
The Goa / Karnataka Border is just in sight , its raining less but there are lots of Customs guys on duty and I am accutely aware that the back end of my Vespa is sticking way out, the back door will not close and I am without the obligatory red flag!
The Goa chappies called me through....phew......now for the Karnataka lads, I felt a bit like Steve McQueen in The Great Escape where he's on his motorcycle , jumping barricades and trying to find a gap in the border.....except my two wheeler was a Vespa and it was in the back of a jeep and it was 2011 and I was wearing a kurta rather than a leather flying jacket....and the guards weren't armed......."Stop!" The jeep screeches to a halt from a blistering 5 kms per hour, I didn't want to raise there suspicions that I had done something wrong, I really hadn't but I suppose 5 kms per hour was a bit odd....
' What's that?' "Its a Scooter....'' "Papers?'' Oh bugger I knew this would happen. So I had to park and rummage around for the Registration.......you must understand at this point that no matter what, when there is someone representing Law Enforcement around I always feel guilty! I have never done anything wrong but its just a reaction. I remember once driving in the UK and there had been a terrible accident, glass, skid marks, bits of car all over the road and this policeman was directing the traffic around the scene to allow the accident team to take the measurements, sweep up etc...I spotted him miles off, all the vehicles involved had already been towed away but as I approached, all I could see was that he was directing the traffic.....I swear to this day that he must have changed his action. just for a split second and so I followed his directions and stopped , smack in the middle of the accident scene surrounded by bits of wreckage and glass and very bemused policemen in bright yellow jackets. I wound my window down "What did I do? I wasn't speeding Officer honest!' ...'No sir, but you may have destroyed vital clues in how the accident happend.....' "Oh, sorry......shall I go then ?'
Back to Goa....With beads of sweat running down my brow...actually that's not right, it was rain running down my brow I take the paperwork over to the boss, I know he's the boss, he has bigger badges and a bigger belly. He takes the log book, 'Model?' " Its a '62, I'm taking it home to Mysore". Big smile from Big Daddy, the babies coming home "Off you go!" I nonchalantly run back to the car, throw my document wallet, behind the seat and drive off at a thundering 20 kms per !
Still raining......
After an hour or so....
Still raining......
I drive on over the River at Karwar, very pretty with views out to sea and a sand bar reaching north across the estuary. Drive on past The Udipi Restaurant where the food is cheap and more than acceptable if you are on your own but today I have to keep going. The road is still quiet and its too early to eat anyway, but must make a mental note to stop off at Karwar on the way back to pick up some fish for the cat, it's where you get the freshest of fish at exceptional prices and where all the local shack owners (south of Agonda) come if they are that interested in picking up the best quality sea food for their guests!
Following the road, its a shame I cant stop and really study the coastline, its quite dramatic and I am sure it would be worth exploring the area more...so much to do ......
I have been travelling for some time now and decide that my friends advice to take some one along to keep me company would have been a good idea....
Mmmmmmm...
A few miutes later there's a chap, well dressed, office type struggling with his umbrella and getting very wet, as I pass he looks up. I know in Europe there is no way I would give anyone a lift but this is India, its 7 a.m. , there cant be any nutters around can there?
'Udipi?' asks the guy, "well in that direction to start with." He gets in, its then I realise the only two words he speaks are 'Udipi' and 'No'....so....... 'You ok? ', "No', 'I'll drop you off at Hanovaar?', 'Udipi'.....anyway he was ok we had a fairly one sided conversation but eventually got the knack of just asking the right question...."You aren't english then? ' 'No' ..."Enjoy Shakespeare' 'No'! Anyway it passed af few minutes and then I dropped him off at my junction.
After two hours or so...
Still raining...
Thr road off the NH17, signposted 'Bangalore' was wide and winding and almost immediately starts to climb up into the Ghats. Fast and smooth and was a very pleasant surprise, the landskape is very pretty and as you climb it gets better and better, before long you are in the clouds..the rain clouds.....very dramatic and wet. The road unforunately is also wet and as you get higher it become narrower and less well kept. When dry and sunny I expect this to be a beautiful drive but still having wet pants and more than 350kms to go it was still a bit duanting!
One memorable sight was a large lady, just off the bus, carring a huge bag and crossing the road, the rain was bucketing and then I suddenly noticed there was a cat crossing the road with her and actually sheltering under the bag.....what a clever and dry pussy!
There's only one 'T' junction that needed signposts but there's a couple of shops. (Come on what would you expect a T junction has 2 corners!) and very friendly people in uniform, all happy to point me in the right direction........
After what seems to be forever you start to approach the junction for Jog Falls, I decided to turn right over a bridge, WRONG..this led to Jog Falls which actually is well worth a stop and stay over...but that's for another time. Back over the bridge, you see the water vapour /spray hanging over the falls, quite amazing and I promised myself to go back.
Back on the main road, which between the NH17 and Shimoga which up until now has actually drops down to single track and possibly just large footpath in width in places, starts to descend and suddenly the rain stops! Hoorah! The road quality also gets better Hoorah! and then I realise its taken me nearly 5 hours to there! The 'less than 10hr' Google prophecy is simply not going to happen.
Dry and warm ......
The road becomes quite fast and the signs for Tumkur and Shimoga come quick and fast. The landscape has now changed , the terrain is flat with dramatic mountain ranges and outcrops 'outcropping' on regulat basis. 50 kms or so from Shimoga there is a signpost for Bangalore and Shimoga and its simply did not make sense, so bear this is mind, I had no choice but ask someone.
Suddenly as I am talking to a chap on the right, someone flashes a police id card in front of me! OK here we go, the civilian then asks where am I heading and the next minute he is in the seat beside me . Well, he had a police id so off we go, it turns out he is a 'finger print expert'.....very odd.....in the middle of nowhere I am sitting next to a 'finger print expert'? Be calm. he looks innocent but no ink stains mmmm? But has a 'Peewee Herman' voice and a 'Mrs Doyle' laugh and I kept waiting for the question "Cup of Tea? '.
It didn't happen and as we approached Shimoga I was expecting a request to stop to drop him off, no my new friend had decided to stay with me a bit longer....oh! oh!
No need to worry, I just kept waving at people so that if the cops came looking for my body everyone will be able to say "Yes, he gave us a wave , but looked a bit worried! They went in that direction."
My new aquaitance then suggested lunch, very civilised and we stopped at the Swetha Delux restaurant in Tarikere, its a veg restaurant but serves the most wonderful masala dosa, the best I have had in India! Make it a must-do, if you decide to take this route. The owner is Prakash Chandra Hegde 0826 422362. Excellent!
So on we travel eventually reaching Assikere, 180 km or so from Bangalore and where I dropped off my guest.
The road then on has surprising sights, I was astounded by herds literally herds of ponies, all brown, which really baffles me..why is everything brown , loads of donkeys, all smaller than my dog but I am sure they were donkeys.....missed photo opportunity I think and lots of women wearing what seemed to be early 80's Christian La Croix.
The road was actually a bit boring from then on and once you hit the NH it is very boring but you know you are nearly home. Just one word of warning, if you are not careful the road on to the NH actually turns out to be the slip road off the NH for traffic heading South, so be careful and when you go under the NH at Tumkur be sure to turn right!
Not alot to say really about National Highway driving, anyway you soon arrive in Bangalore, you know simply because you are in a traffic jam, but it is inevitable you will hit traffic if you want to drive from Goa in daylight.
Summary:
Well it took over 13 hours, but the scenery is spectacular and there are lots of small towns and villages and everyone had a smile, there are a few crazy Scorpio drivers but they get everywhere .
So if you have the time and want to make the road trip part of the experience, I would really recommend the 'Jog Falls' route. Ideally a nice open top mercedes would make it perfect but I was more than happy in my Maruti.....even in the rain.
Mangalore Hotel
ReplyDeletePalolem
Situated on the NH17 at Charasta, 2 kms or so from Palolem, this is a local restuarant serving the best 'Special Veg Thalli' anywhere! The quality is super, and you get heaps and heaps of food, more than enough! This is one of my favourite places and although 'local' always has foreigners (not trying to be foreigners) eating there. Very often I meet travel writers and food bloggers there, asking for the recipe or copying the menu!
Excellent!